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Welcome to Dry Dock Modeler

HM Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:48 scale

Featured Replies

Your rigging is very nicely executed Erik; very clean and crisp work.

cheers

Pat

If at first you fail, try again, and then again ...

  • Author

Chris, Pat, thanks for the nice words. After looking at the last photo I tweaked the seizing on the block. I realized you can use needle nosed pliers to squeeze the seizing a bit to taper it more leading away from the block and down the rope. It helps keep the clunkyness to a minimum.

Erik

  • Author

I'm getting ready to attach the gaff and rig the peak halyard and peak halyard tackle, so I'm stropping the blocks needed for that. Here are the 6 stropped 3/16" (4.75mm) blocks with hooks. It took longer to make the hooks yesterday than to strop the blocks today. I made 6 perfect hooks . . . and then realized they were probably too big. So I set them aside, and made 6 more hooks smaller than the first batch by about 20%. I imagine there's a tendency when making hooks with a bunch of separate bends, to accidentally make them too large. At least that's what happened to me. For stropping these blocks I didn't want the hook too far away from the block, so I only wrapped my smaller thread once around the rope after the initial knot that I tied for the seizing.

Erik

Cheerful (561).JPG

These look great. What material did you use for your hooks?

RossR

Completed: HMS Beagle, Frigate Diana and Santisima Trinidad Cross Section by Occre and NRG Half Hull

Current: USF Essex - Model Shipways and Colonial Schooner Sultana - Scratch Build

  • Author

Thanks for the likes and kind words guys! Ross, I used Hillman 24 gauge dark annealed steel wire. It took a while to get the shape of the hooks figured out. I had lots of rejects.

Erik

Wire.jpg

  • Author

With the mounting of the gaff, peak halyard, peak tackle, throat halyard, and flag halyard, I finished Chapter 12 of the monograph. These steps were all pretty straight forward following the instructions. It's interesting that it's the last step of installing all this rigging, the flag halyard, that adds tension to all the other ropes mentioned above, by pulling down the back of the gaff. Taking photos is getting more difficult as the ship gets bigger than my blue construction paper background. Now that the overall model is so much bigger, when I'm not actively working on her, she lives on the shelf that will be her permanent home when finished. It's easier to not accidentally break something that way.

Erik

Cheerful (562).JPG

Cheerful (563).JPG

Cheerful (564).JPG

Cheerful (565).JPG

2 minutes ago, Erik W said:

With the mounting of the gaff, peak halyard, peak tackle, throat halyard, and flag halyard, I finished Chapter 12 of the monograph. These steps were all pretty straight forward following the instructions. It's interesting that its the last step of installing all this rigging, the flag halyard, that adds tension to all the other ropes mentioned above, by pulling down the back of the gaff. Taking photos is getting more difficult as the ship gets bigger than my blue construction paper background. Now that the overall model is so much bigger, when I'm not actively working on her, she lives on the shelf that will be her permanent home when finished. It's easier to not accidentally break something that way.

Erik

Cheerful (562).JPG

Cheerful (563).JPG

Cheerful (564).JPG

Cheerful (565).JPG

So beautiful Erik!

It gets better with every new post. Such a clean build.

Eric that’s some excellent work!

I will be referring to these pictures when I get to this stage.

Chris

It's looking fantastic, Erik. Really nice build.

Regards Christian
in the shipyard: Hayling Hoy, 1759 - scale 1/36
on the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776; Comet,1783; Aetna, 1776; Granado, 1742; HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HMS Triton, 1771
"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

That rigging is so neat and cleanly done Erik, impressive.

cheers

Pat

If at first you fail, try again, and then again ...

  • Author

Thanks for all the likes and compliments! So far so good with the rigging. I'm getting the hang of it. I'm about to start on the shrouds which I expect to be more involved and more of a challenge. Like everything else on this build, I'll just take it slow.

Erik

  • Author

I made and installed the burton pendants. This involved serving the entire length of the .035" standing rigging, making a couple of hooks, and stropping blocks to both the served rope and the .018" running rigging rope. Then mounting it all on the Cheerful. If you look closely at the middle belaying pin in the last photo you can see how close I cut it with the .018" rope length! I meant for it to be a couple of inches longer. I guess going forward I'll be measuring 4 times, rather than 3 when figuring out rope lengths to cut. Haha.

Erik

Cheerful (566).JPG

Cheerful (567).JPG

Cheerful (568).JPG

That's a very high standard for other to aspire to! Excellent work, Eric.

  • Author

With more and more running rigging to belay, my clunky fingers and tweezers seem to be lacking, so I built a couple of small tools that may help. One for grabbing rope and one for pushing it. These are just made out of wood dowel I had and .018" brass rod. I soldered a V shape on the end of one of the rods. I don't know if I'll use these, but they were easy to make, and seemed like they may be useful.

I'm working in the shrouds now. Installing the deadeyes is a real challenge. Having the shroud crossing over itself and then making the throat seizing are a real pain in the butt! It took 2 hours to complete the first shroud/deadeye. The results turned out OK for a first attempt. At least there are only 7 left to do. As you can see in the photo, the first shroud is fully served, while the other half of the pair is only served at the top.

Erik

Cheerful (569).JPG

Cheerful (571).JPG

Cheerful (570).JPG

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