This is my build log for the mini kit version of the double capstan purchased from JJ at Portland Scale Ship Co. that Chuck from Syren Ship Model Co. designed. I do not yet have all the tools needed to scratch build this to my satisfaction so the kit from Portland offers a nice option.

The kit arrived well packed in a small box only 3 days after ordering it and shipping most of the way coast to coast across the US. Very prompt and responsive service from Portland on this order.

The kit contains all materials needed to build the capstan with the exception of whatever finishing materials you will need and glue. There's a length of brass rod for the pivots on the pawls as well as a length of 40lb monofilament line for use as bolts. A packing list is included to allow you to check for completeness of the kit. This was something I didn't expect with such a small kit.

The materials used are a combination of Alaskan Yellow Cedar for all wood parts, a set of 3d printed resin parts, some laser engraved self adhesive boards for the name plates and trim, brass rod, and monofilament line. All wood parts are cleanly laser cut without any excessive char. All 3d printed parts are of high quality requiring minimal cleanup.

The parts below are not 100% comprehensive, but represent examples of all the parts and materials used.

The only common area of all the printed parts that needed some sanding was the end of each piece that was the final layer printed. These surfaces were slightly rounded and a few passes on some 240 grit to level them did the trick. This is pretty common with some printed parts and not difficult to correct.

Steve

At the time I built this model, the instructions were in the form of Chuck's original build log. I decided to depart from that build order and started with the lower and upper base parts. I started with some light sanding of all surfaces and then assembled the wood side pieces to the lower base.

I glued the side pieces in pairs being sure that I had the correct order so that they read correctly! I used some scrap strips as gauges to ensure the side pieces were centered on the base.

I then trimmed down the first pair flush with the lower base and then added the second pair.

You have an option with the kit to finish these side pieces and keep a natural wood look, or you can apply the included self adhesive laser etched boards over the top which is the option I selected. If you want to keep the bare wood, be careful in trimming the ends to prevent tear-out on some of the lettering.

I then added the spacers to the corners of the upper base.

Some light sanding did a nice job of cleaning up the Syren logo on the bottom of the lower base. This will also get some WOP later.

Steve

Nice start on this kit. This will build into a nice display piece.

Next I tackled the round components, the two capstan drums and the lower pawl ring.

I decided to create a mandrel for holding the drums using a 1 1/2 inch long #6 machine screw and some washers and a nut to hold the pieces while I chucked that into a 1/8 inch collet in my rotary tool. This was a personal preference as I was not happy with using the 1/8 inch square stock as described in the kit instructions.

First step was to shape the the inner most three layers of the drums and fit the base of the pawl into its ring. I used the profiles shown in the drawings and assembly instructions to guide me. In my opinion, this mandrel provides much better control over the work.

Then added the 1/64 inch thick disks and the top & bottom pieces and using the edge of a sheet of sandpaper, added the grooves. Make sure the holes in the top pieces align with the notches for the capstan bars!

And the completed parts

Steve

Dyeing the printed parts.

Per the instructions, I ordered some black Fiebings Pro Dye from Amazon. This is an alcohol based leather dye.

I cleaned up the printed parts and soaked them in a diluted solution of the dye for several minutes. My personal experience was that I needed to soak the parts for 10-15 minutes to get a deep black color.

I recommend working with the dye in a separate location, away from your model. This stuff will not come off and cannot be easily sanded away if it gets where you don't want it.

Checking the parts. Any surface that you cleaned up / sanded will take the dye more quickly than the remainder of the part.

After allowing the dye to fully dry overnight, I used a spray matt finish. If I had to do it again I would have used a wipe-on matt finish because that would have resulted in less build-up on the parts. Some sort of clear finish is a good idea, I noticed a small amount of transfer of the dye from the parts to my fingers prior to applying the clear.

Steve

Adding the whelps and chocks.

I worked on the upper and lower capstan assemblies at the same time for these steps as they were reputative between the two capstans. I applied a couple thin coats of paint to the drums and mounted the center columns using CA.

To remove char and shape the whelps , I clamped each set together and shaped them as a group to ensure consistent shape and to aid in preventing the rounding of the edges during the sanding process.

I wanted to position the whelps around the capstan as uniformly as possible. My method was to mount two of the whelps on opposite sides aligning them as carefully as possible. I used gel CA for this which did provide me with just enough time to ensure correct position before the glue set. I then used the chocks as spacers to locate the remaining 4 whelps around the capstan.

First two whelps glued in position and setting up position of the next two in between them.

All six whelps glued in position. The chocks are just sitting in the slots acting as spacers at this point.

And progress so far, just seeing what it looks like.

The notches in the whelps that receive the chocks are a little too wide. I clean them up as much as possible without making them any wider. When I installed the chocks, I biased them upward to be tight against the top edges of the notches in the whelps. This model will be viewed looking down on it most of the time and this technique does a pretty good job of placing the resulting gap out of view unless you pick the model up in your hand, turn it over, and look at it.

I glued the chocks into place and then rough-shaped them with a sanding stick following the plans. The upper chocks have a radius and the lower chocks are straight. You can see that gap in the notches I was just describing.

Then I finished the chocks by adding the concave profile to the lower chocks.

And after several thin coats of paint. I wanted the wood grain to still be visible.

Steve

Finishing the base

I added the self adhesive pieces to the base. I used a piece of scrap as a guide to position these pieces correctly before pressing them down. Once they make contact they are not removable. Best to treat this as you would contact cement.

This set of photos is a little out of sequence, I worked on this part at the same time I was working on the whelps in the previous post. I was kind of all over the place in the sequence of this build, working on whatever caught my eye that day. Doing my best show a sequence of steps in this log when possible.

Dry fit of the parts. I painted my base and then applied a satin clear. If I had to do it over again I would have used the black dye on the wood base. There were a few build logs where this was done and I like that look better than the paint. I also needed to remove paint build up from the square cut outs that receive the columns on the lower base.

Steve

Absolutely lovely work...it was such a fun project.

Building the pawl assembly

I cut the provided brass rod to an appropriate length and then blackened the pieces after sanding them to a bright finish and soaking in IPA to remove all dirt and oil.

Then mounted the pawls onto the rotating base and ring assembly. I only used a press fit so the pawls are able to move.

Some weathering powders made from sanding some material off of some pastels

And the finished pawl assembly.

Steve

Adding the iron rings, bolts, and finishing it up

I added the iron rings using the same spray fixative that was recommended for the assembly of the channels on my Winchelsea kit. I really like this stuff for mounting thin parts that require some time to position correctly before the adhesive fully sets. If you use a thick enough coat it will become permanent after curing for an hour or so.

Calculate the offset from the edges of the drums to ensure you get these rings centered.

then added the bolts using the supplied monofilament line and trimming the line just proud of the surface to simulate the heads of the bolts sticking up just a little. I also decided to add the bolts to the center disk on the top capstan using some 20lb line.

And then the final assembly

I had a lot of fun with this kit, it can be completed at a casual pace over 2-3 weeks and makes a great display piece.

Some things I have seen done on other builds that I really liked and would add to my own if I ever built this again include:

• using dye to color the wood bases instead of paint

• using wipe on matt finish on the printed parts instead of spray (less build up)

• coloring the caulking lines on the partners

• adding treenails to the partners

Steve

Beautiful model. Your build log will definitely be a good go to for those building this kit.