I will be slowly rebuilding my original build log from a few years ago when I began the project. I will be leaving out the early POB portion of the model even though some of it is seen in the build instructions. At some point I plan to resume work on the POB prototype and finish planking it and eventually finishing it. For now I will just cover the model as it is being offered.

JJ

She is just beautiful.

Thank you Jim!

Starting with the former. The model is designed as a POB/POF hybrid so we have a funky bulkhead former as you’ll see in the stern. Start by glueing the three pieces together on a flat surface, the pieces are MDF so they are pretty flat to begin with.

We now need to add the false deadwood, the prototype model is slightly different than production models and the instructions reflect it. The false piece is 1/8” and the former is 1/4” so we need to make sure it’s centered. We accomplish this by using 1/16” shims to lift it up while it sets. I had originally designed the deadwood to reflect the drawings and be built from several pieces like the real one would have been but I soon realized that it would be impossible to see to I axed that idea.

We can now stand up the former and prepare the rabbet strip. The strip is 3/16”x .080” pear and comes included in the kit. Like other models the strip is centered on the former and runs the whole length except for the last few inches in the stern where the deadwood goes.

Moving forward the bulkheads can now be fitted. From this point forward nothing is glued until called out in the instructions, this allows for the entire sub structure to be fitted properly and aligned before final glue.

The bow has an extension that needs to be fitted onto the forward formers, this is covered in the instructions in detail but you can see below how this assembly goes together.

And finally the bulkheads dry fitted with longitudinal support on each side. With all the critical structural pieces in place and fitted properly the model is now ready for glue. All the parts fit very snug and once in place should not be removed, I glued the assembly with PVA in place as seen below, others have used CA which will work just fine as well. The model becomes extremely rigid now.

Now with the main framing and everything fitting nice, the entire structure can be glued together. I elected to brush titebond into all the joints. The hull became extremely rigid at this point, this is great and exactly what we want. Next is a series of jigs and longitudinal structure that makes up the gun port framing.

Below we can see the extension support structure going in place along with the stern frame jigs. This is covered in the instructions and it is very straightforward. Also we can see the upper and lower frame brackets going in. These all locate and hold the hybrid frames in place and are located and numbered according the bulkheads the attach to.

Several frames are being tested before I cut the Pear ones. I’m also adding the forward bow MDF frames that are retained by a series of jigs. This will all be removed once the hull is planked and everything is solid.

Longitudinal gun port framing going in place. This will also heavily reenforce the bulkhead extensions while keeping them at a proper spacing. This will all be critical later in the build.

We also have stern frames going in as well. I added small stubs on the jigs to take the rubber bands, these come in very handy this part of the build.

I’m showing the very early POB model as I did not document this extensively on the framed model. Above the wales everything is the same so this applies.

Continuing on with the stern and the balcony, this is all handled by the stern frame jig, the balcony panel fits right on the stern frames.

Once all the jigs and frames are taken care of we can move into the actually framing of the hull. I first completed all the frames that are perpendicular to the hull then moved into the cant frames and finally tackling the Hawes pieces.

Onto the remaining frames at the stern of the model. These are a little tricky as there is a sequence at which they go on, I cover this in the instructions. First we begin with the deadwood, this is laser cut out of pearwood and requires some work before it goes on. As seen below we need to remove a lot of material before proceeding.

Once in place we can start adding the stern frames. I determined that adding the “a” frames first was the best route to take as their angles are determined by the brackets then the “b” frames, the smaller half frames can be sanded and adjusted to fit center between the larger ones. The frames are all etched with a sanding reference to provide the correct angle but you may have to adjust further depending on how they look on the model.

Now onto the transoms and verticals fillers, I thought the transoms would be hard but they actually went in quite well and exactly as I designed them. They just require patience and small sanding adjustments until they fit snug. The stern post is designed with slots in it to support the transoms. Each transom sat in place on its own without glue. I worked from the top down. Each transom also needs to be pre sanded to match the angle of the inner post as you can see below.

From there the fillers went in, now these are tricky and require multiple angles to fit. The instructions give details on their spacing. Each one requires several dry test fits.

Once in place all the transoms look like a LEGO model, not to fear, with hours of sanding what seems to be concrete, you will end up with a lovely stern on a 50 gun ship.

Next is the task of depositing half the model on the ground through a series of block sanders and a handy dremel sander. I ended up spending a few days fairing the hull out, the pear frames are much harder than the MDF structure and take some time to sand down. Also much care is required to not snap off one of the frames.

Next I started lining up the frieze panels in preparation for planking, these are laser cut and require little modification but they also set the the model up for planking so they both need to be installed correctly with a nice curve. They are pretty easy to install and just require a little patience and a lot of clamps. I set mine in place with several clamps after doing the required trimming then once everything was lined up correctly I simply glued them on from the back with CA.

Since we are not planking below the main wales the planking is quite easy. I lined off the 3D model by projecting the planking in 2D onto the 3D hull surface. From there I was able to produce the tic strips for each bulkhead that when installed would guide you through the planking. Each belt is color coded and easy to follow, just spial and sand each plank to fit over the tic strips.

The strips on the model with planking underway. I just glued the strips on with a liberal dose of PVA, we don’t want the planks ripping off the paper. I also use ca to glue my planks down with PVA on the edges. I may be the messiest there ever was at planking a hull. Thank god for sandpaper.

Planking continues on the model, But before the main wales can go on the lower counter needs to be attached and faired in. The counter will require some slight trimming. I soaked mine on the back side so it curled up in the right direction then when it was in place where I wanted it I just used CA to attach it while in place.

From there I was able to attach the remainder of the tic strip and also remove the lower transom piece that we used to align the stern frames. The outer extension of that is not required later in the build.

That looks exceptional.

Thanks Jim. More to come soon and then when I’m all caught up I’ll actually be able to show some current progress.

Planking concluded on both sides with the lower counter attached. I also added the two strakes below the wales by starting at the bow, then the aft most plank at the counter and tying them together just below the QG. I find it much easier To manage that tricky bend at the counter.

I love your work.

Great development.

Cant wait to see it finished, thoughts on next kit?

Vahur

17 hours ago, grey wolf said:

I love your work.

7 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

Great development.

Cant wait to see it finished, thoughts on next kit?

Vahur

Thank you both.

Vahur, I’m Looking towards something 17th century and Northern European. Maybe a smaller kit and another that’s in the 50-60 gun range again.

Chapter one and two completed. Next up is the installation of the printer quarter galleries in chapter 3.

JJ

It's always a pleasure to follow your log.