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Welcome to Dry Dock Modeler

H.M.S. Triton 1773 by Rustyj - 1:48 scale - Cross Section

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H.M.S. Triton, 1773 is a 28-gun sixth-rate British frigate.

HMS Triton was a modified Mermaid-class sixth-rate frigate of the Royal Navy.

She was first commissioned in August 1775 under Captain Skeffington Lutwidge.

This cross section was built at 1:48 scale. Wood used in this model is Boxwood, Ebony, Swiss Pear, Holly and Cherry.

I started off by making the section of keel. I marked off the rabbet and used a V chisel to cut it out.

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Then I started cutting out the pieces of the double frame. To do that I cut out and temporarily glued the plans to a billet then cut them out on the scroll saw. I made sure to clearly mark each frame as there would be a lot of pieces and it's easy to confuse them.

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  • Ryland Craze changed the title to H.M.S. Triton 1773 - By Rustyj - 1:48 scale - Cross Section

This section was my first wooden model.

Regards Christian
in the shipyard: Hayling Hoy, 1759 - scale 1/36
on the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776; Comet,1783; Aetna, 1776; Granado, 1742; HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HMS Triton, 1771
"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

  • Author
16 hours ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

This section was my first wooden model.

Hi Christian,

Though not my first model it was my first scratch build. I really enjoyed it and learned a lot doing it.

Frames were built on top of the plans to ensure they were correctly aligned.

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And test fit on the keel.

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After assembling all the frames, it was time to place them on the keel. The keel was temporarily attached to the build board.

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The upper section of the jig was placed at the correct height and the frames added. Rubber bands were used to hold the frames against the jig while the glue dried.IMG_3089.JPG

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  • Ryland Craze changed the title to H.M.S. Triton 1773 by Rustyj - 1:48 scale - Cross Section
  • Author

Next I did some lower inboard planking.

First were the limber boards and limber strakes, regular planks to the thick stuff.

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At this point I switched to the outboard and started on the wales. They were made out of ebony.

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If I remember correctly because of the scale the plans called for using black paper between the planks to simulate the caulking.

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I am really interested to see this as I am thinking of starting a cross section build in the future. Did you manually file / sand the frames or did you use a power tool?

  • Author

Hi Aunt Emma. I cut close to the line with the scroll saw. When possible I use the disk sander on the outside curve. For the inside I put a sanding drum in a drill press. I get as close as I can and if needed finish up with files and sanding sticks.

Thanks for that. It is a very well crafted model. Your choice of timber is excellent.

  • Author

Next was time to tree nail inboard and out. I used my Dremel drill to drill the holes.

I pulled the tree nails through the Byrnes drawplate.

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After that it was time to start on the deck beams. Ther attached PDF shows the lower deck layout.

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Again, the plans were temporarily glued on and cut out on the scroll saw.

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To get the correct camber I clamped the beams with a wedge in the middle that was slightly higher than needed to compensate for spring back.

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I then confirmed the camber with the plans. I took a little experimentation to get the right size wedge.

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And here is the start to the framing of the lower deck.

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  • Author

Next were the knees and hanging knees.

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With the carlings all in place it was time to add the ledges. You'll notice none of the notches had been cut into the carling prior to installing them. I choose to do it the harder way and cut them out while on the model. I was concerned I would not get goo straight lines doing it ahead of time.

I glued the plans to the carlings.

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Then I placed straight piece of wood one the carlings and marked out nice straight lines.\\IMG_1602.JPG

Once I had the locations marked, I cut out the notches into the carlings.

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Repeat, Repeat, Repeat. 😄

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  • Author

Here is the completed deck framing.

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Now I needed to make the hatches. They were made out of red heart and boxwood.

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Now the grating. The base board had a strip inset to guide the billet. The blade height was set to the proper depth, and a started cut was made. Then the billet was set on the guide strip, and it was passed over the blade. The billet was then moved to the left and repeated until the billet was completely cut.

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Then it was crosscut and the pieces were assembled to make the grating.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The grating looks excellent. Another trick I might need to borrow.

You are truly brave to cut the notches in place. They turned out great. Those joints are very nice.

Chris

  • Author

Thanks Aunt Emma and Chris.

Work on the outboard planking and gunport framing.

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I scraped the molding with a profile filed into a brass plate.IMG_1670.JPGIMG_1671.JPG

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The rest of the planking was added and treenailed.

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Next I cut out the stairs on the table saw and added them.

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I clamped a ruler to the hull to give me a straight line.

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That’s a great job – well done.

You're doing such a good job! Looking forward to following as you finish this up.

I think this has to be one of my next builds. I love the ability to be "in" the ship and see all of the intricate framing.

A fun little project I did a long time ago was the cannon station that Model Shipways did in their "Guns of History" series.

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