Post 20

Completing the tiller attachment.

The final part is the attachment of tiller and worm drive.

I have been hampered in my efforts by the lack of a detailed plan and I have had to rely on a visual interpretation from photo’s of the restored Fifie Reaper, and indistinct drawings and plan of the Fifie True Vine.

Reaper

What I am sure about is that these late 19^th/early 20^th century large Fifie’s did have the wheel close to the stern with some sort of mechanical attachment to work the rudder.

It would be reasonable to run a shaft from the wheel to the stern post, covered by a narrow longitudinal box with a rod or stiff wire from the rudder, entering the box on the aft starboard side.

This is as much detail as provided on the True Vine plan. There is also a small drawing of a ‘boxed’ worm drive with dimensions in the book Sailing Drifters by Edgar J. March.

5798

The rod is 0.9mm ø micro brass tubing with a couple of etched brass eyebolts (PE2) from the kit inserted in the ends.

5800

The connecting ‘Bolts’ are formed from brass wire which hold the set up together.

5812

My interpretation is based on the Reaper set up.

If further information comes to light I can make further modifications but for the present I am content to leave it at this point.

 

B.E.

30/06/2020

Post 21

Taking stock

I felt this was a good point to review progress thus far.

This is also a good point to set out the remaining deck fittings to ensure there are no unwanted surprises.

5825

I have made a couple of additions to the deck furniture, in the form of Chimneys, to service the steam capstan, and Galley stove.

Such pipes are shown on the plans I have seen, and Reaper also has one.

 A chimney is easily made, from some 3mm ø aluminium tubing. A smaller second pipe was also fashioned for the galley stove.

Because of my modifications to the steering I had to reposition the Mizen boom stop slightly.

5823

The cover boards for the Fish Hatch have been fitted with ring bolts in preference to the provided items, and only a portion of the cover boards are in place.

5839

The hatch is left partly open to reveal the nets that would usually be kept in that area.

5836

The nets were cast over the Starboard side and there should be a net roller running along the hatch coaming to assist the process.

I don’t have sufficient detail of the arrangement to fit one yet, but I am looking.

Such boats also carried seven 22’ sweeps stowed on the Foredeck and shipped into crutches socketed into the Timberheads.

I don’t know if I will represent these at present.

5830

5818

5819

5822

5826

5829

Since I have started researching fishing boats I have been amazed at the sheer hard manual work, hazardous conditions, and danger involved in working these boats. The seamanship required to work the lugger rigs seems extraordinary given the harsh conditions they had to work in.

It is hard to believe that contained within the hatch were some 60/70 nets, 60 yards long, and when strung together produced a drift extending some 3300 yards from the boat.

The invention of the steam capstan must have been a very welcome addition to aid the exhausting process of hauling in the nets.

B.E.

01/07/20

Post 22

Looking at the masts and booms

The Foremast on these large Fifie’s seem almost over-scale but are very stout timbers, necessary to withstand the pressure from the enormous lug sails carried.

The kit mast represents a height above deck of 52’6” with a 15” square section at the deck, and 9”ø at the masthead.

This is fairly modest by comparison with recorded dimensions given by Edgar March.

The True Vine also a 70 ft Fifie had a foremast with a 22” square section at the deck, tapering to 9”. This would equate to 8.75mm at 1:64 scale, something that would not fit on the ‘Lady Eleanor’

Time to get the lathe out.

5848

Walnut square section (6mm) is provided for the mast. Walnut is a good choice I think, as the masts do seem to have been of a dark hue, apart perhaps from a white section to the Mast head.

 

To make the mast I roughly take off the corners above the square section using a micro plane and a ‘V’ jig.

5847

I then use the lathe to create the taper.

I use a gauge at marked points along the length to check progress.

The Mizen mast more closely follows the given dimensions of the True Vine (15” at deck, tapered to 9” at masthead.)

6mm Walnut dowel is provided.

The Mizen boom is a length of 3mm Walnut dowel slightly tapered. This looks a little thin to my eye by comparison with the boom on Reaper. Altho’ I have given lengths of this boom I have not found details of relative diameters as yet.

5853

The Mizen mast was set with a forward tilt, and wooden wedges were used to trim the angle of the Foremast to suit the preference of the Skipper. I intend to display my Fifie with the mast vertical. This seems a common arrangement as seen in a large number of the old photo’s I have looked at.

5850

The yards need only a little adjustment to the 3mm dowel and are shaped by hand.

5852

What a pleasure it is to only deal with a simple lug rigged two master, no tops, crosstrees, or mast caps to consider.

5900

The masts are a snug fit and I won’t need to glue them in.

A wedge aft of the mast will be required to hold it firmly against the baulk. (not necessary if you prefer some rake aft)

5904

The kit provides brass etched ‘mast rings’  which perform two purposes, the first to gauge the mast taper at the mast heads, and the second where one of the six eyes that form the ring are the attachment point for the Burton stays of the masts.

A hole is also drilled thro’ the mastheads to take the yard halyards.

I feel a slight enhancement coming on to this arrangement.

I now need to familiarise myself with the rigging set up and attachment points before I proceed further.

 

B.E.

05/07/20

Post 23

Colouring the sails

This is the description as given in the Sailing Drifter book.

Sails were ‘barked’ a rich, dark brown, almost black colour. They were seldom tanned the warm Red of the English drifters.

This is the sort of look I was after.

To replicate this effect, I am using Rit brand (cocoa brown) dye powder, as mentioned and used by James in his ‘Zulu’ log.

One issue that arose for me, new to this process, is that the quantities given relate to articles of clothing, not two smallish cotton sails so the question of proportions comes to mind.

The recipe’ and procedure I used was as follows.

Into a plastic bowl I poured 4 pints of hot water.

4 teaspoons of dye powder (virtually the whole packet) were dissolved in a 1pint jug of near boiling water from the kettle.

This was added to the bowl followed by a sprinkling of salt.

The mixture was well stirred, and the sails added.

 

I stirred them around for approx 20 minutes which gave me the depth of colour I thought was ok.

The sails were then rinsed in a bowl of cool water three times, until the water ran all but clear.

They were then hand washed in warm water with a mild detergent added, rinsed and put to dry flat on an old towel.

5916

The completed sails set out to dry, a slightly lighter hue should ensue.

5922

I think this is as close as I will get to the shade I was after, so I can put them aside now until needed.

For some reason the sail stitching and bolt ropes remained stubbornly white.

I used a fine point waterproof marker to colour these and take the starkness out of the white.

 

An interesting snippet I came across during my subject reading:

Early in the 20^thc two men, each sewing for a 9-hour day completed a Foresail in a week, a Mizzen in 4 days, 2 jibs in 6days.

Finished price – Foresail £30, Mizzen £15, Large Jib £10.

 

B.E.

 

06/07/20

Post 24

A little backtracking.

I have been looking at the ships wheel.

3435

It is of the same dimensions as the kit provided wheel but whilst looking at a photo of a figure standing next to the wheel on Reaper I have come to the conclusion that it is somewhat overscale.

I came across a description of the wheel dimensions as relating to ‘True Vine’, another 70’ Fifie of 1905.

 

A wooden wheel, 20” outside diameter., with a 2” rim, 6” boss, 2½” thick, has six spokes 4” by 1”, and is connected by a worm gear.

5897

I did a scale mock-up in card to these dimensions, and this is the result, quite a difference.

The scale wheel measures 14mm o/a diameter including the spokes.

Amati do a 14mm wheel which I ordered as a suitable replacement.

5971

A much better scale fit I think.

5978

I have also created a Skipper for my Fifie.

5990

Willie Buchan is a little rough around the edges, but he is a good 1:64 scale to help me judge relative size.

5991

5995

5994

A re-think on ring bolts

Having gone to some length to make ring bolts for the hatch boards, I’m now undecided whether I like the look, or indeed if they are an authentic fitting.

I’m beginning to think from looking at mostly unclear old photo’s, that the boards didn’t have such fittings.

This is re-enforced by this finely detailed model of a Zulu.

The cover boards as seen both on the hatch and stacked up behind the coamings are free of such fittings.

5984

I remade the boards from Pearwood sheet and they suit my eye better.

6007

B.E.

09/07/2020

Post 25

Bits and pieces

It seems it was practise to have the name of the Registered port on the Starboard aft quarter, and the vessel name on the Port side.

6020

The name Fraserburgh (why didn’t I choose Wick) was made up with 1.5mm brass letters from Scale-link, ca’d to a board. Given the tiny size the process went better than I had imagined.

I used the name boards to cover the now defunct steering rope ports.

At the stern Port side an iron ring is required to retain the Mizen boom. One isn’t provided in the kit but they are easily made by various methods.

6013

I silver soldered a ring to a base plate, secured to the thwart using ca.

At the bow the kit provides a brass etched Bow plate, very nicely done, but I hesitated to fit it. Not that there isn’t evidence for such a fitting, the Reaper has one, but I had concerns that if I blackened it it would be too stark against the varnished hull, and the lower sections would need to be painted.

6019

Nevertheless it is a nice feature so I thought I should at least give it a go.

The Brass was prepared by washing in soapy water, rubbed with  fine wire wool, rinsed in distilled water, and immersed in diluted blackener, before rinsing again. Buffed up before a second dip, a stable colour was obtained.

On reflection I decided to add it.

The manual suggests that this part be glued to the stem and that short pins be inserted in shallow holes to represent the retaining nails.

 

I didn’t find this necessary and simply pinned the bow plate to the stem using blackened pins only. (shortened pins for the top two)

I was conscious of the fact that any stray ca getting on the Bow plate would spoil the look.

6034

The top of the plate did need a spot of ca to hold it secure to the stem top before the provided brass eye (PE12) was inserted.

6045

6048

The lower part of the plate is painted with metal primer, to take the follow thro’ paint lines of the lower hull.

6109

B.E.

11/07/20

Post 26

Thinking about Masting and rigging.

There is not a lot of rigging on this build, but there are simplifications that can be enhanced to better reflect accuracy

To rig the Fifie I will be using Syren blocks and thread and referring to details given in the Sailing Drifter book by Eric March.

The Foremast can be enhanced by creating a false sheave in the mast head, rather than simply a hole to pass the halyard to the Fore yard through.

The kit provides brass etched ‘mast rings’ with six horizontal eyes, one of which is the attachment point for the Burton stays of the masts.

6162

I replaced this with an ‘iron’ ring (heatshrink tubing section) and added a vertical eyebolt.

The masthead section has been painted white in accordance with practise of the day.

The Mizen Mast was treated in the same manner.

The Yards

6173

The main change I made to the yards was the replacement of a hitched tye, with an eyebolt/ hook arrangement.

The area between the slings I have fitted with a canvas covering, represented by micro-porus tape.

Attaching the sails

These are connected to the yards by Robands.

Edgar March (Sailing Drifters) refers to these as Rovings being secured by a ‘Parley’ Knot, no doubt a Scottish description.

 

Given the scale I will use a simple square knot for the purpose.

 

0.20mm Syren line taken twice thro’ the sail gommets* and secured atop the yard.

 

*For my purposes a hole thro’ the head seam made by a needle.

6168

The top ends of the sail are secured to the yard via the Head cringles using earings thro’ holes in the yard arm.

An outstanding question is whether to add the reef points. These can be tricky little additions to get right on model sails, there is a tendency for them to stick out every which way, spoiling the effect.

I’ll ponder on that awhile.

6177

A trial fit of the sails in place.

6171

I now need to attend to the tricky business of attaching parrels to the yards.

 

B.E

15/07/20

Post 27

Reef points and other tricky issues..

I have been thinking about reef points, these do not feature on  the kit available sails, but neither are they shown on the kit sail plans.

Several rows of reef points are appropriate to the sails on these large luggers and at 1:64 scale should really be included. Their absence is noticeable on the prominent sails of the Fifie model.

 

Several things have to be considered.

How many points on each sail.

How long are the points.

What is the vertical spacing of the points.

How to apply them to look natural.

I have used Harold Underhill’s scale drawings of the Zulu  Muirneag as the basis for addressing these points.

 

The points are attached along the vertical seam lines of the sails.  To begin I am attaching four bands on the Foresail and two on the Mizen.

I have scaled the points to a length of 14mm.

From the drawings I have worked on the basis that the tip of  upper band is a fraction above the knot of the lower band.

Application of the points to the sail is an issue. To do it properly a double length line is passed thro’ a hole in the sail and knotted at the top each side.

The issue with this is that getting them to hang naturally can be problematic without resorting to use of pva to hold them down on the sail.

This risks marking the previously dyed material.

I have decided to simply glue the points to the sail at the knot. This way the point lies flat, and the application of glue is better controlled.

6184

The sail is taped down to get the line of the points.

6194

Two lines of points pva’d to the Mizen sail.

6190

I’m happy with the result.

6205

This method seems quite effective and is certainly a lot less time-consuming than feeding them thro’ the sail, adding knots, and then trying to persuade them to lie reasonably flat.

I also attended to attaching the parrels.

6200

Still only a temporary rig at present.

6202

 The advantage of this simple lugger rig is that I can slip the yard/sails including the parrel over the masthead.

Moving on to fix the points to the larger Foresail.

 

B.E.

16/07/20

Post 28

Raising canvas

With the reef points completed the sails can now be raised and the sheets, tacks, halyards, and Burton pendents attached.

6257

6258

Rigging the Fifie, basic as it appears, is an interesting exercise not least because I am unfamiliar with the arrangements on these small commercial vessels, and my research has revealed details not reflected on the kit plans.

I am rigging the model by reference to a combination of reference books, Edgar March, primarily. I have used the plans of Underhill relating to the Zulu Muireag, and of the Fifie’s Reaper and True Vine. Various photos, both old and of the current Reaper, were also of great assistance.

There is an indication on the plans of Reaper that the tyes were of wire rather than rope (not a modern substitution)

I did think about using wire, a scale diameter of 0.25mm would be required. This was fairly easy to reproduce from thin twisted  copper wire, but I couldn’t get the colour right, so I let it pass.

I am using Syren 0.45mm ø line for the Tye, and 0.20mm for the tackle.

6284

The tackle consists of a pendent and two large triple blocks.

I am using Syren 6mm blocks.

The strops represent iron and were formed from silver soldered brass wire.

6282

A similar arrangement is used for the Mizen Tye and Halyard with smaller 3/16^th double blocks (4.7mm).

Mizen Tack.

6295

A chain necklace was used to secure the Mizen tack which I have sought to replicate.

6288

A more interesting feature clearly shown on an old photo of the Zulu Muirneag.

The Fore tack

This is attached to a hook shackled to the eyebolt atop the stem. Sometimes large hooks (horns) were attached to the port and starboard sides of the stem for this purpose.

6248

An alternative attachment point for the Fore tack is set in the deck a few feet aft of the stem.

This is as far as I can go with rigging at present, I am awaiting receipt of fresh rigging supplies from Chuck.

 

In the meantime I have been fiddling around with deck fittings.

These boats were also equipped with a set of sweeps for rowing. Mine are a scale 23’ overall.

There are also two ‘wands’ or hefty push sticks some 36’ long used to fend off and assist movement in harbour situations.

A 14’ boat hook completes the set.

6270

In this shot on the near side are the set of six sweeps, on the far side the Boat hook and wands.

The alternative hook for the Fore tack can be seen on the foredeck.

6272

Another shot of the sweeps and a glimpse into the hold containing the nets and floats.

6250

6253

Not far from completion but I still have the sheets and Burton Pendents to complete, the block sets have been assembled in readiness.

 

B.E

23/07/20

Post 29

A Basket for Fifie.

Still waiting for stuff to arrive to complete Fifie, so looking around for something to work on.

One of the additions that caught my eye when researching the subject are the large woven baskets used to lift the Herring catch out of the hold.

There are called crans and have a specific and approved measure for holding a given quantity of herring.

Their size was regulated and standardized by government decree as a legal measure.

The 1832 Act set the cran at 30 inches high, the diameter at its widest 21.9 inches and at the base 18.9 inches –

 I scoured the internet for something suitable to no avail, so I started to think about how I could reproduce these for display purposes at 1:64 scale.

The answer came in the form of an unlikely source – the centres out of the mast hoops supplied by Chuck for the Cheerful build.

6370

The centres form the base with a series of holes drilled around the circumference, 0.5mm ø brass wire is used for the frames.

6371

0.1mm line is used for the weave.

6375

The brass rods are metal primed.

6379

The finished basket.

The completed item measures 12mm high x 10mm diameter at the top. This equates to a size of 30” x 25”.

6386

6393

6389

I’m not sure that my crans would pass muster by the Scottish Fishing Authorities, but they are pretty close for scale.

 

B.E

29/07/20

Post 30

Completing the rigging.

With the arrival of fresh rigging supplies from Syren I can now complete the task.

The Fore sheet

The Reaper has the sheets leading directly to the port or starboard sides, depending on how the sail is set.

I have taken my lead from the arrangement shown on

the Underhill plan for the Zulu Muirneag.

6506

The sheet has a 3mm double block hooked to the clew, with the tackle running thro’ a 3mm single block attached by chain to the portside stringer with the running line secured around a belay pin, and tied off at a cleat 0.20mm line.

Mizen sail sheet

This is taken to the Portside as with the Reaper.

6513

Outboard set up of the Mizen sheets.

6525

Inboard view of the Port Mizen Sheets.

Burton Pendents

The Mizen pendent with a luff tackle is secured in the deck adjacent to the mast partners (skegs) and the fall belayed to a    cleat in the partners.

6501

I didn’t glue the masts in their housings, so I fitted the Burton pendent before the Mizen sheets to secure the forward angle of the mast.

Fore-mast Burton Pendent.

This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.

6500

Rigged to the starboard side, aft of the Halyards.

6529

Masthead view of both Fore and Mizen Burton Pendents.

The falls of the tackles were separately made and lightly glued to the deck.

6514

The fittings are now ready to go back on the deck.

I think Fishing boat models lend themselves and benefit from a bit of dressing up. The Fifie otherwise only has the pretty little steam capstan to provide deck interest.

6497

These additional fittings represent the usual equipment carried on Fifie’s, and steam pipes would normally be found for the Galley stove, and steam Capstan.

Netting and floats have already been installed in the Fish Hold.

 

B.E.

06/08/20

Post 31

The completed model

So after around three months Fifie is completed.

Starting with some close-up shots.

`

6552

6555

6571

6549

6545

6572

The crew are Modelu 3d printed figures.

They are primarily Model railway figures which are produced in all the Rail scales, including S scale which is 1:64.

They are really finely detailed, best I’ve seen; not cheap at £7.40 each but they are suitable for the late 19^th/early 20^thc period. Just right for a model such as this.

6561

6562

6563

6566

6540

6543

6541

6538

6569

Thoughts on the Fifie kit

I have thoroughly enjoyed building this kit, perfect for a novice build, but offering plenty of scope to enhance and add extra detail.

As with all of Chris’s kit offering it makes up into a very attractive model, and one that will be fairly easy to keep dust free without the need to cover.

On my model very little is glued down and it could be stripped back down to deck level in a short time, pretty much as on the real thing.

Being of only fore/aft rigging the model takes up only a modest space and makes for a nice decorative feature in a domestic setting.

For the new builder, I would say go for it, a great introduction to ship modelling.

For the more experienced builder, it provides a short time interval build, a relaxing change from perhaps more involved projects.

 

B.E.

07/08/20