1 hour ago, modelshipdood said:

Thank You, I’m back to my bench after a few months of drought!

You just needed the right kit.

11 hours ago, modelshipdood said:

Thank you kindly, Phil. I remind my colleagues that I am fortunate that I typically can devote about 4 hrs/day in my workshop.

I could spend that much time in the shipyard since I retired, but I find I get fried after about 2-2.5 hours. Your Surprise looks beautiful.

On 7/18/2026 at 10:41 PM, DocTom said:

I could spend that much time in the shipyard since I retired, but I find I get fried after about 2-2.5 hours. Your Surprise looks beautiful.

Thanks, Tom, much appreciated.

Is there a particular approach to finishing the 3D printed parts? they look so smooth that I can't imagine them taking paint very well....how do you treat them for finishing?

hamilton

A Myriad of Important Gundeck Details

After adding 168 eyebolts to the 24 cannon carriages, you'll need to mount 120 eyebolts into the bulwarks for cannon tackle. The lasered holes in the bulwarks are a great guide for the placement of the bolts, however they present a challenge when attempting to mount them. Because the eyebolts (now painted black) are slightly too long for their "pilot" holes, they don't mount flush to the wall once removed from the PE brass sheet.

To solve this problem my solution was to make the lasered holes deeper so I didn't have to use sprue cutters to tailor each of the 120 tiny eyebolts' lengths. To accomplish this I used an awl on each and every one of the holes. Using tweezers and a special poly tip that slides onto my CA glue bottle I could apply a near microscopic drop of glue to the eyebolt's tip and carefully push it home, flush, without difficulty. I mounted three (3) eyebolts to each station, one above the gunport and only two in the lowest lasered holes; this is important to note since I've chosen to add breeching ropes to the gundeck's cannon. See the next photo.

Of course, if you don't intend to add the eyebolts to each gun station you can ignore everything I've noted! This will save you approximately one lengthy work session to just add this eyebolt detail.

I am using Syren tan rope for my (visible) cannon. The cascabel "loop" (on the rear of the cannon) can easily accommodate the rope shown here without enlarging the resin loop; this size rope is a good scale representation as used in an accurate historical context. There is no rope in the kit to accomplish this detail that will look as good as the rope shown here (I checked the supplied rigging rope).

My technique to add this detail involves prepping the cannon's breeching rope OFF the carriage and BEFORE tying the lashed rope to the bulwark eyebolts.

For these cannon I made a 5.5" length of rope and threaded each end through the LARGER, ROUND P/E eyebolts - NOT THE SMALLER ones used for the bulwarks. The small eyebolt won't accept the diameter of the breeching rope! After sliding an eyebolt over one end of the rope, I secured it with two thread lashings on both ends of the rope (see next photo for this detail). I used my "third hand" fixture to accomplish this.

Once prepped as I've described, the cannon assembly with its rope is considerably easier to attach to the bulwark and the gun's carriage. I can't imagine accomplishing this any other way at this small scale.

The cannon is highlighted with a gun metal weathering powder (Tamiya) applied directly to the 3D part as well as the tips of the carriage and bulwarks eyebolts: this metallic effect shows up clearly as highlights here. I chose to leave the P/E brass flintlocks bright so one could see them: painted black they will virtually disappear. The breeching rope's length (5.5 ") leaves plenty of slack after careful double lashing at each end. The rope will need to be "dressed" to look realistic, including the drape at the rear of the cannon: I use a daub of matte medium acrylic to "wet" the rope and form the shape and let it dry in-place. I've chosen to stain my carriages with natural stain rather than paint them. Don't forget to paint the trunnion straps black at the front of the carriage.

Others may want to add the training tackle ropes. I prefer to not add this considerable additional detail since I think it adds too much clutter (X 24); it certainly will add many additional hours of tedious detailing. But you may choose differently...

The peek into my Captain Aubrey's cabin. I will add the 3D printed figures and the accoutrements goodies. Note: no breeching ropes in here due to all the other bits n' pieces fighting for one's attention. Door pulls and hinges left bright brass so they can be readily seen. With my model, the only way to see any of this will be through the five stern lights (windows).

The same Tamiya weathering powder applied to the stove. This superb 3D printed detail will be covered-up mostly once the weatherdeck and knees obscure the clear view...

The view from aft. Those pesky pumps! One cannon rigged (temporarily, not glued to the carriage), 23 to go... My intense overhead shop light makes the deck appear much lighter than it actually is (light grey).

1 hour ago, hamilton said:

Is there a particular approach to finishing the 3D printed parts? they look so smooth that I can't imagine them taking paint very well....how do you treat them for finishing?

It depends on the specific 3D part. Ones that I'll paint will be primed with Tamiya Grey (small rattle can). The cannon/carronades will be left unpainted but weathered (see previous post). The figurehead as well as the figures and Captain's cabin gubbins will also be painted. The lantern will be painted (and I'm adding two additional ones purchased separately to add to the stern). There are some other 3D's but ATM I don't recall each.

You must need to sand them to give the surface some tooth to hold the paint, though, no? Or do you use an air brush?

hamilton

It's taking shape very nicely Ron! And quick 😁

I’m really enjoying this build log. So many great ideas and so much inspiration.

Like you, I’m a fan of staining wood to look darker… your weathered oak decks are fabulous. I was aiming at the “fresh from the shipyard” oak colour for my Indefatigable, so a bit darker, and I used an oil finish, thinking along the same lines as you. CA glue seems to stick fine to these wax or oil finishes when we’re adding further detail.

Your natural stain on the interior is beautiful. To my eyes, the unstained pear in the kits just “feels” too light and bright. Wouldn’t all this stuff be oak? But then we all want a different look for our models. The natural pear finish always looks very clean and crisp.

Nice to see someone else rigging cannons. I had been questioning my sanity on this one, particularly since I have no idea what I am doing.

I added a 3mm brass ring to the cannon carriage eyebolts on each side, to take the breeching rope.

With training tackles, one person’s repetitive, tedious, work is another’s relaxation process. It adds more clutter. I’m telling myself that more cluttered = more authentic. We each have a different approach to our models.

And on the subject of cannons, I’m grateful for your pictures of the flintlocks, so that I now know what the PE parts are for and where they go. I’d hate to have got to the end of my Indy build and have mystery parts left over.

It's great to see your Surprise build coming together so beautifully, so quickly, and I'm already looking forward to the next episode of inspiring ideas.

Ron...Absolute stunning workmanship shown in your latest drydock photos. Are you willing to share how you get such clear close ups? Equipment?

CHSChuck

Looking amazing Ron. Do you plan to add the cannons and their breech ropes before planking the kit, or are you going to slip them in after?

13 hours ago, hamilton said:

You must need to sand them to give the surface some tooth to hold the paint, though, no? Or do you use an air brush?

No need to sand to prep a surface for painting (other than gently removing tiny "bumps" from the printing supports which can be accomplished with an adroit scalpel blade). I prime with acrylic spray typically(Tamiya, as mentioned) and for nearly all 3D parts, hand paint them. I use an airbrush but only for very large areas and this typically excludes 3D details.

1 hour ago, KillicksToastedCheez said:

Looking amazing Ron. Do you plan to add the cannons and their breech ropes before planking the kit, or are you going to slip them in after?

Thanks. The gundeck cannons with their ropes will need to be in-place before the upper deck beams are added. Planking comes at a much later stage with this build. This means one has to be extraordinarily cautious since a casual misstep could be serious. Chris provides jigs to keep the bulkhead tips from breakage (at two build stages) since final hull planking requires turning the entire model upside down on your bench.

3 hours ago, CHSChuck said:

Ron...Absolute stunning workmanship shown in your latest drydock photos. Are you willing to share how you get such clear close ups? Equipment?

Nothing unusual, Chuck. For this build log I use my iPhone 16. The 16's camera has three fixed lenses for a large range of shooting options. I have adjustable overhead lighting on my bench which provides adequate light for decent, clear photos. I hold my phone steady by bracing my hand; this also helps with clarity. I post process all my photos in PhotoShop on my computer and, if necessary, I can correct for exposure, color balance. Typically, I use a feature called "Unsharp Masking" which helps with contrast.

4 hours ago, Mowzer said:

With training tackles, one person’s repetitive, tedious, work is another’s relaxation process. It adds more clutter. I’m telling myself that more cluttered = more authentic. We each have a different approach to our models.

And on the subject of cannons, I’m grateful for your pictures of the flintlocks, so that I now know what the PE parts are for and where they go. I’d hate to have got to the end of my Indy build and have mystery parts left over.

It's great to see your Surprise build coming together so beautifully, so quickly, and I'm already looking forward to the next episode of inspiring ideas.

Yep, I agree some repetitive tasks can be relaxing. Your cannon rigging detail is superb and in-keeping with your other build choices- which I like.

The flintlocks are minuscule and it took me a while to find them hanging out on one of the kit's brass frets! I hate it too when there are "leftover" bits...

Thanks for your encouragement. I remind everyone that I've been building different flavors of Chris' kits for yonks and, just as important, I'm retired and lucky with my health to be able to spend hours in my shop (on most days).

Great and speedy progress Ron.

I like your use of natural wood colours and minimal paint, a very nice effect.

Regards,

Maurice

2 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

Great and speedy progress Ron.

I like your use of natural wood colours and minimal paint, a very nice effect.

Thank You, Maurice. My internal colors are set but there are a number of choices for the external appearance that are still undecided.

A few building details here that might help others in the early stages of finishing the extensive, latticed superstructure.

FIRST, however....

I am building Surprise without the weatherdeck cutouts: this eliminates the majority of gundeck details from the completed view. This photo shows the waist which is wide open and intentionally reveals the basic breech rope rigging for the 24 pound long guns (and two additional long guns breech-rigged to either end of the waist, a total of 8 per side for 16 total). The balance (8) will not have ropes because they will not be seen (except perhaps by peering through the gunports😆). I've installed the knees here as well as a few more near the waist. Others I haven't bothered with mounting.

Once the complement of 27 beams for the top deck are installed it would be impossible to add the long guns with rigging detail of any sort. I flipped to the end of the build manual where it became immediately evident that mounting/securing of the long guns was handled at the end of the build; this is fine for the remaining eight guns on my build. I'll "fish" them through the openings as was done by Jim H...but very carefully as one risks getting glue slopped around on parts where one doesn't want it. The tiny brass flintlocks will be added to the waist guns.

My other PRINCIPAL consideration is that my decision to handle the gun rigging is in an early stage of the build: for anyone choosing to do this same thing (gun rigging), there is the jeopardy that comes along with it since there is considerable work to add the bulwarks as well as hull planking. The several pear upper works patterns will need to be slipped over the protruding cannon barrels. This, and other subsequent build steps, could be problematical. My gamble. We'll see how well this decision this works out when I get to the stage of mounting the precise upper works pear patterns.

Next...

My mast "TEST": for those who intend to add masting and rigging (as opposed to presenting with Navy Board style stub masts), it would be good to doublecheck that all the mast dowels fit their mounting provisions without binding and are in near final position at this early superstructure stage. There is a little "play" to the upper deck support patterns as shown here for the Main Mast (Part DL9). Although one can sand and tweak the dowel (lower mast) to fit into the holes much later, I prefer to sand the round openings for an easy mounting (clear the char!) to ensure the vertical orientation of all masts, both fore-to-aft and port-to-starboard. A small amount of deviation can make for hard to correct problems later as the masting for this model will be dominant and in particular, the Surprise's mainmast is large (12mm). ...And...

...I did the same check on the foremast with part DL8. In this view, two of my long guns have breeching rig and the two foremost cannon do not and are not mounted (I'm closing the bridle ports). I plan to "fish" these cannon (and six others) through their port openings later in the build.

Here's the alignment check for the mizzenmast. Part DL11. Builders will note that I haven't mounted the additional screens in this area around the mizzen.

Here all but three of the top deck aft beams are installed. The arrows point to the openings for the beams which I'll mount after Mssrs Aubrey and Maturin are painted and playing their instruments. Cannons in the captain's quarters will be fished-in and glued later since I'm not adding breeching ropes to these two carriages. I'm considering possibly installing a LED light in this area while there is still space to work this out and fish the wiring through the superstructure. Not sure yet about this, but it would help to clearly see the nice interior detail as well as the two English gentlemen in their least bellicose personas.

Checking the alignment of the capstan with a dowel doesn't hurt at this stage either.

I will add scuppers to Surprise, about where the arrows point on my wall-mounted Marshall print from the NMM. The gundeck also had waterways (at the base of the spirketting) but I'm not adding these. The scuppers will simulate lead pipe openings. These are not indicated on the print.

I am about to start adding some of the eyebolts to the deck and gun ports. As far as I can tell there is no information regarding fitting these items on any of the plan sheets, which is very unusual based on my vast experience with Vanguard Model plan sheets. There are photos in the build manual however so it is not an issue.

There is a typo in the the build manual reference page 46, task 225. The correct gunport eyebolt reference is part number PE24S and not, as typed which is listed as part number PE245. These eyebolts are located on 0.4mm Photo-Etched Brass – Sheet 2 (704 off) and 0.4mm Photo-Etched Brass – Sheet 3 (128 off).

They are not on 0.4mm Photo-Etched Brass – Sheet 1, although these parts are referenced as being on that sheets in the build manual parts list on page 152.

Chris is aware of these typos and these will be corrected in time for the next print batch.

6 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

There is a typo in the the build manual reference page 46, task 225.

I was also momentarily confused by this. I looked at the P/E sheets and found one million six hundred thousand of them (across a couple frets). Tiny little buggers to remove and install, but at the end of the day, a shipwright would say: "Aye. An eyebolt is an eyebolt, nothing more, nothing less." I masked-off the appropriate sheets and rattlecan sprayed them matte black.