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Ships in Scale - Latest Issue

Willie Bennett by Griphos - Model Shipways - 1:32 Scale - 1899 Launch

I found a little pdf I made to help my B-I-L do the last bit of deck planking, so I thought I'd post that.

Deck planking is pretty straightforward. I tried to keep the length of any individual deck plank under a scale 20 ft, as I thought that would be the longest board actually used. When planking, it’s easier to use two pieces to run the length so you can shape the pointed end first to fit, then cut off at a deck beam square.

It’s the last few pieces that are a trick. On one side, the last plank fit the width just right. On the final side, there was a little gap I’ll have to fill with “caulk” (glue and sawdust).

If you have a french curve, you can move it until some part of it matches the curve of the side:

Once you have a section that matches close enough, mark the ends with tape:

Then you can mark a section with that curve:

If you have drafting dividers, you can mark the exact shape of the opening:

Once marked, just cut outside the line with a sharp knife, not too close. Don’t try to cut it all in one pass. Several light cuts in the same groove:

Set it in place and compare to see where you need to sand and whether the line matches well:

I sand and fit one side first. Make sure it fits well before doing the other side:

Then sand and fit the other end. Don’t leave it too tight. The glue will swell the part a little and make it harder to fit back in. Here it is test fitted:

And here it is glued and wedged tight:

I’ll fill in the gap with glue and sawdust and then sand and scrape the deck level and smooth.
Then, it’s time to start making deck furniture, I think.

By Griphos · 18 minutes ago18 min
USF Essex 1799 by RossR - Model Shipways - 1:76

Hi Ross,
I’m still a beginner when it comes to ship modelling, but I’m considering taking on the Essex myself. If I do, I would really like to build her in the 1809 configuration.
Are you planning to model the Essex in that configuration as well — with the 10 carronades and the modified upper-deck armament, including the chase guns?
Your build is very interesting to me, especially because I’m trying to figure out how to accurately represent the 1809 configuration.
Thanks!

By Olli69 · 1 hour ago1 hr
HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by TMJ - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Scale

Outer transom installed, prepping, adding red ochre color, and dry fitting the inner bulwarks.

By TMJ · 1 hour ago1 hr
HMS Portland 1770 by westwood - Portland Scale Ship Co. - 1:48 - 50 gun 4th rate

Thanks, guys.
The second layer of supports for the upper deck beams is finished.
Now I have to cut the strips and start laying the deck.

By Westwood · 1 hour ago1 hr
Wooden kits for kids

Alert is a wonderful ship to build. I had a great time. I think it took me about 7 months.
Chris

By Desert Animal · 2 hours ago2 hr
Wooden kits for kids

Glad you found a kit she liked, The Alert is a beauty. As a dad of a girl toddler, I'm also interested in kid friendly kits in case mine ever gets the itch to build something in the future.

By KillicksToastedCheez · 2 hours ago2 hr
SMS WESPE 1876 by wefalck - 1/160 scale - Armoured Gunboat of the Imperial German Navy - when first commissioned

Thanks to all for comments and clicks ☺️
*******************
Another tool-making diversion: A folding tool
As will be seen in the next post, quite a number of delicate laser-cut parts will need to be folded. Therefore, I thought a folding tool might come handy. A number of commercial gadgets are available, but considering that they essentially consist of a couple of milled-to shape pieces of aluminium and a thumb-screw, I find them rather overpriced at €20 to €70, depending on what you buy where. Also, if I have the right materials and tools, I prefer to make such things myself.
I did not have a suitable piece of flat aluminium in stock, so I decided to make it from some 4 mm thick Plexiglas off-cut. This has the added value that you can better see, where you place the folding edge. Plexiglas is more vulnerable than aluminium, but I can always make a replacement, should the need arise.

A set of fingers ranging from 1 mm to 6 mm width were separated by notches made with a 4 mm cutter. The front was bevelled for better access to small parts. The opposite side was left straight for longer parts. For the moment, the front edges where milled at 90° degrees, but I can imagine that a slight overbending would be better. I am considering to mill on a 5° or 10° relief angle, but will first test the piece in practice. A more acute angle will make the edges more vulnerable to chipping. The underside is somewhat recessed over most of the width, so that tool really clamps with the front edge, where it is needed, and does not wobble.

As I also did not have material for a base in stock, I decided to use the base of the sanding tool that I made a while ago. It has the added value that no extra gadget is floating around the workshop. The folding ruler was drilled and two corresponding holes in the base were drilled and tapped for M3 thumb-screws.

To be continued ...

By wefalck · 2 hours ago2 hr
Bateau de Lanvéoc by JacquesCousteau - 1:32 - Ancre Monograph

I think the best way to avoid such distortion issues would be work on some kind of building slip and to add parts with as little tension as possible. However, wood changes its dimension with humidity, though there may have been no tensions, when you installed a part, later it contracts or dilates and thus causes tensions.

Otherwise, an exemplary project !

By wefalck · 2 hours ago2 hr
Bateau de Lanvéoc by JacquesCousteau - 1:32 - Ancre Monograph

Hi Jacques,

It’s become something of a plague lately with these warped hulls .

In your model, the upper part of the hull seems already too rigid to bend at all, yet taking the model apart is rather pointless. Nevertheless, there’s a very good chance that your solution will work, because under the pressure of 1-2-3 blocks that you’ve applied, the lower sections of the delicate, hopefully flexible frames should bend appropriately. More precisely, the lower sections of the frames at midship should generally become slightly less arched, and it is precisely this new shape of the frames that you can try to set by wetting them and similar methods.

But all these cases are excellent confirmation that wood can be, and is, a rather unstable material, which must be taken into account when using it — or one must simply come to terms with the effects of this instability.

By Waldemar · 2 hours ago2 hr
Wooden kits for kids

Wow, I had no idea that David designed the "Learning series" kits, these look neat!
But she really wants a Ship, and not a Boat 😅

Rattlesnake is interesting! After some reading found out that it has really thin veneer sheets, no room for sanding, very delicate. Also the client did not like the way it looks, what can I do... She must like it, after all.

Ended up ordering Vanguard's Alert. Regular straight planking, but after scrolling through pictures and manual - she really loved it and insisted on ordering it for a couple of days. That's the most important criteria! Eye candy 😊

But let's keep the topic running anyway, "helping Mike to pick a kit" is just a start. There is very little attention on starting kits for kids, any nugget of knowledge would help others.

By Mike Y · 2 hours ago2 hr