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Ships in Scale - Latest Issue

Sovereign of the Seas 1637 by Brian62 - Manuta - 1:78

A bit of progress.

By Brian62 · 57 minutes ago57 min
Naval Cutter Alert 1777 by serikoff – 1:48 – Two Hulls: skeleton PoF and fully planked and rigged (based on TridentModel hull)

Chapter 15. Nails and Bolts. + Nailing.
4/6

Nailing.

Later, I came up with a better way to cut toothpicks. I didn't use plastic under the nippers, but rather applied two layers of electrical tape to the nippers, thus increasing the cutting power. I'll demonstrate this clearly later in the review.

Let me remind you that I describe all the detailed explanations of all the processes step by step on my website at the link>>>
...

By serikoff · 1 hour ago1 hr
Naval Cutter Alert 1777 by serikoff – 1:48 – Two Hulls: skeleton PoF and fully planked and rigged (based on TridentModel hull)

Chapter 15. Nails and Bolts.
+ Marking and making holes and joints
3/6

...

By serikoff · 1 hour ago1 hr
Naval Cutter Alert 1777 by serikoff – 1:48 – Two Hulls: skeleton PoF and fully planked and rigged (based on TridentModel hull)

Chapter 15. Nails and Bolts. + Holders.
2/6
In this section, I'll show you how I make imitation bolts out of brass. But I'd like to point out that I ultimately decided to switch to copper. However, I'm leaving a description of this method as an alternative, in case anyone needs it.

Calculation and production of holes for model holders.

Unfortunately, the keel was damaged during the drilling process, which was noticeable, but I decided to address the situation by partially covering certain areas of the ship's hull with planks. I did so in the future. This clearly showed what the clinker planking looked like in different places and how it connected.

Overall, I liked the look of the bolts, but the method was too time-consuming and the brass color didn't match the copper bolts. So, I logically replaced the bolts with copper ones and did it a different way, which is much faster...

By serikoff · 1 hour ago1 hr
Naval Cutter Alert 1777 by serikoff – 1:48 – Two Hulls: skeleton PoF and fully planked and rigged (based on TridentModel hull)

VOLUME 5. Nails and Bolts | On the Decks

Chapter 15. Nails and Bolts.

From the construction diary I am posting here only photos. But this part has a lot of textual explanations, because...
If you're interested in reading about the entire assembly process for this part, you can follow this link >>>
1/6
Unfortunately, I made one mistake in connecting the boards in several places. Out of habit, I calculated everything for a butt joint, but in clinker planking this needs to be done with an overlap using a lock joint. I fixed this, but I couldn’t bear to move a few lines of nails so that everything would be correct. This is described in the text on our website. This mistake occurred at the time of gluing the boards (those whose length did not extend along the entire length of the body and I had to join them together). Ideally, you need to use long boards for the entire length and then make the joints.

Marking holes and joints.

The joints between the planks should not be in the center between the two paired frames, but behind them. The connection follows the principle of fish scales and should be partially in the form of a lock.

...

By serikoff · 2 hours ago2 hr
HMS Mercury 1779 by All Mod Cons - Scale 1:64

Hi All
Thanks for the likes....really appreciated

Looking back at the previous post I realise I missed providing some information on the gun ports.
Once I'd marked the gun ports on the first planking I wanted to ensure that I wasn't going to run into any problems when trying to fit the cannons through the gun port.
This was achieved by placing a piece of wood the thickness of the final deck planking, a quick mock up of a cannon and using magnets to check levels. In the picture below you can see the magnet on the inside, the outer magnet was placed in the centre of the marked gunport on the outer planking allowing me to check for issues prior to cutting out the gun ports

With that ascertained I made up the false deck out of 0.8mm ply and installed in two halves (down the centre line) and pinned and glued to the frames below

Once the second planking was complete I turned my attention to the deck planking....
The paper model has no allowance for a waterway but was was made out some Tasmanian Myrtle...this is what I've chosen to plank the inner bulwarks with...they'll not be painted

The 2mm stock was milled using a round nosed bit and glued to the false deck

The Spirketting will be added later

The deck planking is 4mm x 1mm Tulip wood (poplar) and using a 4 butt shift pattern. I don't think this is historically accurate but I prefer this pattern. Edges of the planking are darkened with a charcoal pencil. It still needs sanding etc but there is too much other work to do that will foul the deck to put too much effort into the finish at this time

Thanks for looking in

Mark

By All Mod Cons · 2 hours ago2 hr
MicroLux Table Saw

Proxxon FET is quite good after the initial tuning. Fence needs caaareful adjustment, proper zero clearence insert should be added, and some cross-cut sleds and thin rip jigs.
And a wider dust collection port, the stock one is a joke.
With these basic tunings/mods you can achieve pretty good dimensional accuracy even with a stock blade.

By Mike Y · 3 hours ago3 hr
Wooden kits for kids

So true, the kid segment is so underappreciated.
But to be honest - at the moment it is only possible if parent is also a modeller. Even super basic kits require so many basic techniques and supervision that a child can’t build them alone to any reasonable quality.
It is so fun to do together, but only if the parent knows what to do :)

It feels like an ultimate challenge for a kit designer - make one that is truly doable with only basic supervision. That should make both Chris and Chuck sweat, but if anyone can make it - it’s them 😊

And boats are deceptive, I would not recommend one as a first kit for a child.
Both sides (inside and outside) are visible and must be neat and tidy, sanded and free of big glue drops.
Thin ribs/frames that are easy to break and must be faired, etc.
Very easy for kid to get frustrated, ”I can’t even build this stuping boat, whääää”. With a ship you have an excuse ”don’t worry, this is a kit for people twice your age, it’s a whole ship, take it slow”.

I would honestly say that building a tiny ”midwest dinghy” was harder than a full hull of a ship that I’ve posted in the first message. Hull skeleton goes together like lego pieces, exess glue is not a problem, everything is going to be hidden under planking. Even planking (1st layer) can be a mess and faired later.

By Mike Y · 3 hours ago3 hr
Willie Bennett by Griphos - Model Shipways - 1:32 Scale - 1899 Launch

I might just add it to my stash!

By Sterling59 · 3 hours ago3 hr
Hudson River Sloop Amelia by Chuck - 1840's - 1/4" scale - POB

Beautiful work, as always! We can already tell this is going to be a stunning design. And, as always, every detail is there.

By JpR62 · 4 hours ago4 hr